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S E C R E T SECTION 01 OF 03 BEIJING 004092 
 
SIPDIS 
 
E.O. 12958: DECL: 10/29/2033 
TAGS: PHUM PGOV PREL KIFR CH
SUBJECT: TIBETAN MONKS DEFIANT AT LABRANG MONASTERY, 
"PLEASE LEAVE" IS NEW TOURISM SLOGAN IN XIAHE, GANSU 
 
REF: A. BEIJING 3966 
     ¶B. BEIJING 2682 
     ¶C. BEIJING 2679 
     ¶D. BEIJING 1513 
 
Classified By: Political Minister Counselor 
Aubrey Carlson.  Reasons 1.4 (b) and (d). 
 
SUMMARY 
------- 
 
¶1. (C) Ethnic Tibetans in Xiahe (Sangchu), Gansu Province, 
told EmbOffs September 25 that authorities there continue to 
be on "high alert" against renewed unrest.  Though, unlike in 
March, Xiahe is now readily accessible by car, foreigners are 
still not allowed to stay overnight.  Han Chinese tourists 
were barred from Xiahe during the Olympics for fear they 
might become targets of violence, according to one source. 
Two Tibetans explained that officials are limiting the number 
of times locals can pray at the Labrang Monastery, which is 
fueling resentment.  Soon after arriving in Xiahe, a Public 
Security Bureau (PSB) officer ordered EmbOffs to leave town, 
though he did permit a quick tour of Labrang.  The policeman, 
an ethnic Tibetan and former monk, provided EmbOffs a window 
into tensions within Xiahe's Tibetan community.  Many 
Tibetans clearly ostracize the policeman because of his PSB 
affiliation, though he took pains to downplay his authority 
and portray himself as a "little guy" who is "just doing his 
job."  Originally intent on escorting EmbOffs on the tour of 
Labrang, EmbOffs' PSB minder was forced to wait outside when 
monks strenuously objected to his presence inside the 
monastery.  End Summary. 
 
"UNOFFICIAL" TRAVEL TO TIBETAN AREAS 
------------------------------------ 
 
¶2. (C) This cable provides expanded detail to ref A report on 
EmbOffs' unofficial visit to various Tibetan areas in Qinghai 
and Gansu Provinces September 21-26.  Specifically, this 
report covers the September 25 visit to Xiahe (Sangchu) in 
Gansu Province and the nearby Labrang Monastery.  Since the 
outbreak of widespread unrest in Tibetan regions of China in 
March, Xiahe and Labrang have been the site of several 
large-scale demonstrations and the arrest of an unknown 
number of monks and lay Tibetans. 
 
XIAHE NOT QUITE OPEN TO FOREIGNERS 
---------------------------------- 
 
¶3. (C) Prior to arrival in Xiahe, EmbOffs received 
conflicting reports on whether the town had reopened to 
foreigners.  One taxi driver in the neighboring Tibetan city 
of Hezuo refused to take EmbOffs on the grounds that Xiahe 
remained "closed."  A second driver, however, was willing to 
make the trip and claimed that he had recently taken other 
foreigners to the town.  Upon leaving Hezuo, EmbOffs' driver 
stopped at a PSB checkpoint to apply for a permit to make the 
drive.  The PSB officer recorded EmbOffs passport information 
but made no indication that foreigners were forbidden from 
traveling to Xiahe.  (Note:  This was in contrast to March 
(ref D), when the Gansu Public Security Bureau established 
roadblocks on major highways to prevent foreigners, 
especially journalists, from reaching Xiahe.)  Bus companies, 
however, apparently are still under orders not to sell 
foreigners bus tickets.  A British tourist EmbOffs 
encountered September 26 in Tongren (Rebgong), Qinghai 
Province, reported that days earlier he was refused a ticket 
to Xiahe at a bus station in Lanzhou, Gansu's capital. 
 
XIAHE SECURITY HIGH, BUT FEWER TROOPS THAN IN JULY 
--------------------------------------------- ----- 
 
¶4. (C) At the entrance to Xiahe, EmbOffs passed a People's 
Armed Police (PAP) checkpoint manned by PAP troops armed with 
assault rifles and standing behind sandbag barriers.  (Note: 
EmbOffs saw similar PAP checkpoints in other Tibetan towns in 
Gansu the week of September 22.)  Inside Xiahe, EmbOffs 
occasionally saw PAP soldiers walking in twos or threes. 
This was in contrast to July 2008, when PolOffs saw 40-troop 
PAP columns regularly marching along Xiahe's main 
thoroughfare (ref C).   Despite the reduced show of force by 
security forces, EmbOffs were spotted and reported to the 
local PSB within minutes of arrival (see below), likely 
indicating that plain-clothes security personnel were 
patrolling the streets.  Several locals said authorities 
continue to be "concerned" about potential unrest.  According 
to Cairang (protect), a Xiahe taxi driver, during the August 
8-24 Olympic Games, Han Chinese tourists were barred from 
Xiahe for fear they would become targets of violence by 
Tibetans. 
 
 
BEIJING 00004092  002 OF 003 
 
 
RESTRICTIONS ON MONASTERY VISITS ANGER TIBETANS 
--------------------------------------------- -- 
 
¶5. (S) Soon after arriving in Xiahe, EmbOffs spoke with 
restaurant owner Namgal Dolma (strictly protect).  Namgal, 
whose establishment caters both to foreign tourists and local 
Tibetans, said her business has been "devastated" by the 
March unrest and subsequent crackdown.  She claimed EmbOffs 
were her first foreign customers since March.  Other tourist 
restaurants in Xiahe simply closed down, she said.  Namgal 
asserted that Xiahe continues to experience protests and that 
she personally participated in several demonstrations.  She 
cited continuing restrictions on Tibetans' access to Labrang 
Monastery as fueling their anger.  Authorities keep a 
register of local visitors to Labrang, she claimed, and do 
not allow Tibetans to pray at the monastery daily.  Police do 
not allow Tibetans to gather at Labrang for festivals. 
Namgal reported that "many" Tibetans in Xiahe have been 
arrested since March, with police frequently beating 
detainees.  Later, EmbOffs spoke briefly with a Tibetan named 
Shamba (strictly protect) who works at a tourist guesthouse 
in Xiahe.  "I hate the government," he said, "but my whole 
family is here, so I stay."  Like Namgal, Shamba described 
restrictions and ID checks for Tibetans wishing to pray at 
Labrang. 
 
JINBA: THE CONFLICTED TIBETAN COP 
--------------------------------- 
 
¶6. (S) Approximately 40 minutes after arriving in Xiahe, 
EmbOffs were approached at their table in Namgal's restaurant 
by Jinba (protect), an officer with the Xiahe Public Security 
Bureau's (PSB) foreign affairs division.  Jinba, an ethnic 
Tibetan in his early forties who speaks fluent English, 
apologetically told EmbOffs that they had to leave Xiahe. 
Jinba then took EmbOffs' passports to be photocopied at the 
nearby PSB station.  Once Jinba left the restaurant, Namgal 
re-approached EmbOffs and explained that Jinba "is Tibetan 
but he works for the police."  "His job," she added with 
obvious contempt, "is to keep foreigners out." 
 
¶7. (C) After returning, Jinba once again told EmbOffs they 
had to leave and offered to arrange a car to take them to 
Tongren (Rebgong), Qinghai Province (a three-hour drive to 
the northwest).  EmbOffs requested first to be allowed a 
brief tour of Labrang Monastery.  After consulting with his 
superiors by phone, Jinba agreed on condition that he escort 
EmbOffs at all times.  During the walk to Labrang, Jinba 
again apologized, saying he was "just doing his job" and that 
he was a "little guy."  The ban on foreigners is a policy of 
higher officials, he said, making clear his personal 
disagreement.  With EmbOffs still in tow, Jinba spotted an 
Italian tourist taking photos along the town's main road.  "I 
thought I told you to leave yesterday," Jinba scolded the 
tourist, saying, "I'm really disappointed with you."  (Note: 
The Italian, a wheelchair-bound paraplegic on a solo driving 
tour across Europe and Asia, told EmbOffs he had ignored 
Jinba's orders to leave and had spent the previous night 
sleeping in his vehicle.) 
 
¶8. (C) Though reluctant to talk about recent demonstrations, 
Jinba willingly discussed his personal story.  A native of 
Xiahe, Jinba described himself as a devout Buddhist who, in 
his youth, spent two years as a novice monk in Labrang. 
Jinba claimed that he traveled to India and, like many 
Tibetan refugees, met the Dalai Lama.  Later, Jinba worked as 
a tour guide for China International Travel Service (CITS) 
before taking an exam six years ago to join the PSB.  In 
explaining his journey from monk to police officer, Jinba 
implied that he entered law enforcement mainly for the 
paycheck.  Jinba also discussed Labrang's history and said he 
was eager for the chance to show two American diplomats one 
of Tibetan Buddhism's great monasteries. 
 
"HE'S NOT COMING IN HERE" 
------------------------- 
 
¶9. (C) At Labrang, EmbOffs purchased entrance tickets and 
prepared to join a tour with a group of five Chinese 
tourists.  Just as the tour began, however, two monks began 
arguing with Jinba in Tibetan.  Somewhat embarrassed, Jinba 
explained to EmbOffs that "the monks don't like me because I 
am a policeman and they won't let me in."  EmbOffs thus could 
not see the monastery and would need to refund their tickets, 
Jinba said.  As EmbOffs were preparing to leave, an 
English-speaking monk offered to take EmbOffs on a tour and 
reluctantly agreed to Jinba's demand that Jinba act as an 
escort.  After entering the monastery, however, Jinba and 
EmbOffs' new tour guide continued to quarrel heatedly.  Jinba 
eventually relented and told EmbOffs he would wait at 
Labrang's entrance while EmbOffs participated in the tour. 
 
BEIJING 00004092  003 OF 003 
 
 
As Jinba walked away, the monk explained that Jinba is 
"unwelcome" at Labrang and that Jinba's demand to escort 
tourists was "unacceptable."  The monk said he recently led a 
tour for a group of Swedish tourists without interference 
from the PSB.  Visibly angry, the monk took a moment to 
regain his composure before continuing the tour. 
 
¶10. (C) During the tour, the monk (who appeared to be in his 
early twenties) alluded to recent unrest and made clear that 
he could not speak freely with EmbOffs.  (Note:  The security 
presence at Labrang was noticeable though not overwhelming. 
About six PSB and PAP vehicles were parked outside the 
monastery's main entrance.  Inside Labrang, EmbOffs observed 
several uniformed People's Liberation Army officers 
apparently touring the monastery.)  In two of Labrang's 
temples, EmbOffs observed large photos of Gyaincain Norbu, 
the boy designated by the Chinese Government as the 11th 
Panchen Lama but who is rejected by the majority of Tibetan 
Buddhists.  In one location, equal-sized photos of the 9th, 
10th, and "11th" Panchens were placed side by side.  Our tour 
guide half-heartedly gestured to the photo of Gyaincain Norbu 
and identified him as the "11th Panchen Lama." 
 
¶11. (C) Following the tour, Jinba collected EmbOffs at the 
entrance.  Unusual for a PSB official in China, he provided 
EmbOffs with his cellular phone number and personal e-mail 
address and stressed that EmbOffs are welcome to return to 
Xiahe when the situation has "stabilized."  Having bid Jinba 
farewell, EmbOffs departed as agreed for Tongren. 
 
COMMENT 
------- 
 
¶12. (C) There appears to be a concerted campaign underway at 
Labrang, probably implemented by the local Religious Affairs 
Bureau, to promote Gyaincain Norbu as the "true" Panchen 
Lama.  During a July visit to Labrang (refs B and C), a monk 
invited PolOff into his private quarters and then insisted on 
showing PolOff a Government-published photo album of the 
official Panchen.  This encounter seemed like a contrived 
attempt to convince a foreigner of the Labrang monks' 
devotion to Gyaincain Norbu.  Of nine monasteries visited in 
Qinghai and Gansu between February and September, Labrang is 
the only one where PolOff has seen photos of the 
Government-recognized Panchen. 
PICCUTA