VZCZCXRO0495
RR RUEHMA
DE RUEHYD #1631/01 2990855
ZNR UUUUU ZZH
R 260855Z OCT 06
FM AMEMBASSY YAOUNDE
TO RUEHC/SECSTATE WASHDC 6877
INFO RUEHUJA/AMEMBASSY ABUJA 1164
RUEHAR/AMEMBASSY ACCRA 0367
RUEHKI/AMEMBASSY KINSHASA 0788
RUEHLC/AMEMBASSY LIBREVILLE 1314
RUEHPC/AMEMBASSY LOME 0233
RUEHLO/AMEMBASSY LONDON 1373
RUEHMA/AMEMBASSY MALABO 0097
RUEHNJ/AMEMBASSY NDJAMENA 1273
RUEHFR/AMEMBASSY PARIS 1600
RUEHOS/AMCONSUL LAGOS 0355
RHMFISS/HQ USEUCOM VAIHINGEN GE

UNCLAS SECTION 01 OF 02 YAOUNDE 001631 
 
SIPDIS 
 
SIPDIS 
 
DEPT FOR AF/C 
PARIS AND LONDON FOR AFRICA ACTION OFFICERS 
EUCOM FOR J5-A AFRICA DIVISION AND POLAD YATES 
 
E.O. 12958: N/A 
TAGS: CM EAGR SENV KCOR SCUL PINR
SUBJECT: CAMEROON: OFF ROAD IN THE WESTERN PROVINCES 
 
 
¶1.  (U) Pol/Econ chief made a three-day trip at the height of 
the rainy season September 28-October 1 to inaugurate 
Self-Help and Ambassador's Girls Scholarship projects in the 
North West, South West and West provinces.  This message 
offers her impressions of the region. 
 
------------------------- 
Initial Impressions of 
western Cameroon 
-------------------------- 
 
¶2.  (U)  The well-paved road from Yaounde to Bafoussam in 
Cameroon's West province winds its way through rolling hills 
and grassy plains.  For those accustomed to the dodgy road 
that connects Yaounde with the commercial capital Douala, the 
smooth pavement, sturdy and wide shoulder and abundance of 
speed limit, road safety and directional signs, impresses one 
that the absence of these elsewhere in the country reflects a 
lack of will, not of ability. 
 
¶3.  (U) Soon after leaving the outskirts of Yaounde, one is 
struck by the prevalence of churches in every village. 
Throughout the western provinces massive structures, built 
primarily by the Baptists, Presbyterians and Lutherans 
abound, reflecting -- especially in anglophone North West and 
South West provinces -- the links with the United States, 
Canada and the UK.  They stand in sharp contrast to the 
modest, even humble, dwellings of the villagers.  Markedly 
less in number, but still noticeable, are the mosques and the 
Islamic primary and secondary schools. 
 
---------- 
Rare Earth 
---------- 
 
¶4.  (U) On balance, the soil in Cameroon's western provinces 
is very fertile; in fact, most of the produce sold in Yaounde 
and Douala is grown in this region.  (Note: There are a few 
areas, however, where the soil is poor and locals are limited 
in what they can grow, mostly to beans and corn.  End Note) 
Roadside markets teem with bushels of fresh tomatoes, huge 
heads of cabbage, potatoes, carrots, green beans, corn and 
dried legumes, not to mention pineapples, plantains, bananas 
and oranges.  The soil itself runs the gamut from Burnt Siena 
to an almost merlot red, and, in places, a deep brown 
reminiscent of espresso roast coffee.  The North West is also 
a rice growing region and the road north of Bamenda snakes 
through the grassy rice fields before climbing into the hills 
of Kumbo and Ndu. 
 
¶5.  (U)  Food shopping in the provinces is a popular pastime 
for Yaounde and Douala residents, many of whom make regular 
trips back to their villages.  (Note: "Village," in the 
Cameroonian sense of the word, refers to a region where 
people speak the same local dialect.  Thousands of people 
might live in a "village." End Note)  Not only is the produce 
fresher than what appears in the Yaounde and Douala markets 
days later, but it is also much less expensive.  According to 
the National Institute of Statistics, 30 percent of the 
transportation costs to get food from the fields to the urban 
markets is attributable to "fees" paid to police at 
checkpoints along the way. 
 
------------------------------- 
Snakes, Rats, Monkeys and other 
roadside treats 
------------------------------- 
 
¶6.  (U) For those with more adventuresome palates, local 
hunters dot the roadside offering rats, snakes, monkeys and 
the more pedestrian goat for sale; at times fresh, or at 
least fresh killed.  Bush meat is for some a choice, but for 
most, the only option.  Though most (70%) of Cameroon's 
poultry farming is backyard, it is not sufficiently 
widespread to provide all families a source of protein, and 
there are some for whom the FCFA 2000 (about USD 4) price of 
a chicken is prohibitive.  (Note: Raising cane rats is an 
important component of the revenue generating activities of 
 
YAOUNDE 00001631  002 OF 002 
 
 
"Serve the Orphans," an Ambassador's Girls Scholarship 
recipient in Ndu, NW Province. End Note) 
 
--------------------- 
"Repatriating Assets" 
---------------------- 
 
¶7.  (U) Another striking feature of the western provinces is 
the abundance of enormous houses -- compounds in many cases 
-- built by those who have made their fortune in Yaounde or 
Douala, either in business or government, legitimately or 
not.  A number of unfinished mansions appear to have been 
started by ministers or other officials who got kicked out of 
office before they could steal enough to complete 
construction.  Far beyond large country houses, many of these 
mansions epitomize wretched excess, both in size and design. 
Moreover, many are nestled among very/very modest dwellings 
and a local villager confirmed the impression that this 
placement is often an "in your face" message to less 
successful neighbors. 
 
------------------------------ 
Roads: The slime is ridiculous 
------------------------------ 
 
¶8.  (U) Though the roads connecting Bafoussam and Bamenda 
(the West and North West provincial capitals, respectively) 
are quite good (even though the roads within the cities are 
pretty bad), venturing off the main road, or into remote 
villages, is an adventure not for the faint of heart (or for 
anyone lacking a four-wheel drive vehicle), and one that 
should be avoided during the rainy season.  Rural roads in 
the South West and North West provinces, at times partially 
paved, but mostly boasting impressive potholes, are so bad 
that they are controlled with "rain gates" to restrict 
vehicular traffic when it rains so as not to further degrade 
the road bed.  Cars, trucks and busses still get through, 
however, and often with dramatic results and they slip, slide 
and (sometimes) flip on muddy slopes. 
 
¶9.  (U) The village of Alou in the South West province is one 
most Cameroonians avoid during the rainy season.  The hilly 
dirt road, when embraced by seasonal rains, becomes a sea of 
thick, clay-like mud, with ruts of 8 to 12 inches.  Sturdy, 
powerful all-wheel drive vehicles have trouble, and typical 
local conveyances have accidents.  Bus and other passengers 
repeatedly have to unload, dig out and re-board. 
 
--------------- 
Meeting the Fon 
--------------- 
 
¶10.  (U) Alou itself is a pleasant town with a newly 
constructed classroom in the elementary school.  (Note: The 
classroom construction was financed by Self-Help funds.  End 
Note)  Visitors must make the obligatory call on the Fon (the 
traditional ruler; called Chief or Lamido elsewhere in the 
country).  The Fon of Alou, only enthroned in January 
following the death of his father, is a medical student 
(dentistry) at the local university.  Protocol dictates that 
subjects must keep their heads below the Fon's and the Fon 
can only be introduced to a visitor by an aide, making the 
whole experience much like that of Anna Lewellyn in her first 
call on the King of Siam. 
 
¶11.  (U) Outside the palace (a description that stretches the 
limit of one's imagination) conversation with the Fon is much 
more relaxed, and he eagerly showed visiting P/E Chief the 
(U.S.-funded) stand pipe for fresh water, the latrine (of 
which he is particularly proud), the community hall, and the 
small herd of goats which provides most of the palace's 
revenue.  As a medical student the young Fon is eager to 
introduce good sanitation and hygiene standards to his 
Fondom; he is also keen to further his dental studies in the 
United States. 
MARQUARDT