VZCZCXRO4595
PP RUEHBC RUEHDA RUEHDE RUEHDH RUEHIHL RUEHKUK
DE RUEHGB #1395/01 1480915
ZNR UUUUU ZZH
P 280915Z MAY 09
FM AMEMBASSY BAGHDAD
TO RUEHC/SECSTATE WASHDC PRIORITY 3232
INFO RUCNRAQ/IRAQ COLLECTIVE

UNCLAS SECTION 01 OF 02 BAGHDAD 001395 
 
SIPDIS 
 
E.O. 12958: N/A 
TAGS: PGOV SOCI IZ
SUBJECT: KARBALA MODE: SECOND EDITION 
 
This is a PRT Karbala reporting cable. 
 
¶1.  (SBU) Summary:  Karbala Mode is a vehicle for capturing 
observations and anecdotes about life in the world Shi'a 
pilgrimage capital that otherwise might not be reported.  End 
Summary. 
 
Where's Abbas? 
-------------- 
 
¶2.  (SBU) Since being sworn into office in April, Karbala's 
government leaders have spent very little time actually 
governing.  Governor Amal al-Din al Hir and Provincial 
Council (PC) Chairman Mohammad al-Musawi have struck deals 
divvying up the PC committee chairmanships but accomplished 
few other tasks.  Mostly, they have expressed a desire to 
attract foreign investment to the province and, on that 
pretext, have spent considerable time traveling abroad. 
Governor Amal al-Din (State of Law) and Chairman Mohammad 
(Hope of Two Rivers) currently are on a three-week trip 
featuring stops in Bahrain, the United Arab Emirates and 
Beirut.  Deputy PC Chairman Naseyif Jassim Mohammad and 
Second Deputy Governor Yusif al-Haboubi have been left behind 
to manage the shop.  First Deputy Governor Abbas al-Musawi 
(the PC Chairman's brother) has not been seen in public since 
last month's swearing-in ceremony.  According to contacts at 
the Government Center, he has yet to appear in his office. 
Although Abbas, like his brother, is known to be shy and an 
awkward public speaker, the actual reason for his absence 
remains a mystery. 
 
Loathe Thy Neighbor 
------------------- 
 
¶3.  (SBU) A local man, accused of being a terrorist, was held 
in jail for three months based on "secret information" 
provided by an informant who claimed the man participated in 
the deadly Shi'a militia violence during the Shabaniyah 
observances here in August, 2007.  When his case finally came 
to trial, the only witness produced was an Iraqi police 
officer who testified that he had never seen the defendant 
before; he signed the complaint, he said, because he was 
forced to do so.  The defendant stated that he was a member 
of the Iraqi Army, had fought against the Jaysh al-Mahdi and 
other militias, and that he was falsely accused by a neighbor 
who wanted to steal his land.  He continued that he was on 
duty during the time he was accused of taking part in the 
riots of 2007.  He became almost hysterical when relating 
that, while he was in prison, his young daughter was 
diagnosed with cancer and lost an eye.  The three judges 
ruled that the defendant was a member of the Iraqi Army who 
really had been on duty during the time he was accused of 
taking part in terrorist activities.  They also determined 
that the evidence against him was false and set him free.  No 
word on whether the person who provided the evidence will 
face charges. 
 
Turbah Charged 
-------------- 
 
¶4.  (SBU) When prostrating themselves in prayer, Shi'as the 
world over touch their foreheads to turbahs, small ceramic 
tablets that are made exclusively from Karbala clay.  The 
soil here is considered sanctified by the blood Imam Husayn 
and his relatives shed when martyred during the Battle of 
Karbala in 680 C.E., the signal event that launched Shi'a 
Islam.  Turbahs are inexpensive and widely sold in local 
markets.  However, vendors here have hit upon a way to charge 
more for the tablets.  Several have been observed selling 
turbahs for more than ten times the going rate by claiming 
they have been blessed by Grand Ayatollah Ali al-Sistani and 
thus can speed the worshippers' prayers to God's ear. 
Knowledgeable contacts assure us that turbahs are never 
blessed by anyone and that the notion a turbah has anything 
to do with one's prayers is nonsense.  Nevertheless, they 
admit that the claims are an effective marketing ploy and 
Qadmit that the claims are an effective marketing ploy and 
report that Iranian pilgrims in particular are snapping up 
the purported "special" turbahs like proverbial hotcakes. 
 
Paper Weight 
------------ 
 
¶5.  (SBU) Earlier this year, we provided Karbala's Project 
Management Unit with trailers to serve as an alternative to 
their overcrowded office.  Recently, officials at the Land 
Titles Office have asked whether we might supply them with a 
trailer or two to help store some of the tidal wave of 
documents overwhelming their work space at the Government 
Center.  Karbala, like the rest of Iraq, languishes decades 
behind when it comes to utilizing information technology. 
Most documents are filed by hand rather than electronically, 
producing innumerable--and essentially unsearchable--boxes of 
paper.  An examination of the boxes the LTO wished to 
 
BAGHDAD 00001395  002 OF 002 
 
 
transfer led us to turn down their request; the documents' 
weight was simply too much for the trailer floors to support. 
 
Hearts, Minds and Stomachs 
-------------------------- 
 
¶6.  (SBU) Cool desserts are much appreciated by Karbalans, 
particularly as the temperatures climb.  Recognizing this, we 
have found that locals are more than willing to meet with us 
on our forward operating base (FOB) if we promise them ice 
cream.  Indeed, even contentious contractor disputes are 
easily resolved when ice cream is introduced into the mix. 
Like those of other PRTs, our FOB's dining facility stocks an 
ample supply of brand-name American ice cream in several 
varieties.  During the past two weeks, several contacts have 
phoned inquiring about when they may stop by again.  Each has 
made a point of asking whether we still have "that wonderful 
American ice cream" and proposed meeting times that coincide 
with dessert.  The flavor favored by our interlocutors: 
Chocolate chip. 
HILL