VZCZCXRO2394
OO RUEHGI RUEHMA RUEHROV
DE RUEHKH #1393 2580903
ZNR UUUUU ZZH
O 140903Z SEP 08
FM AMEMBASSY KHARTOUM
TO RUEHC/SECSTATE WASHDC IMMEDIATE 1894
INFO RUCNFUR/DARFUR COLLECTIVE
RUCNIAD/IGAD COLLECTIVE
RHMFISS/CJTF HOA

UNCLAS KHARTOUM 001393 
 
DEPT FOR AF A/S FRAZER, SE WILLIAMSON, SPG 
NSC FOR PITTMAN AND HUDSON 
ADDIS ABABA FOR USAU 
DEPT PLS PASS USAID FOR AFR/SUDAN 
 
SIPDIS 
 
E.O. 12958: N/A 
TAGS: ASEC PGOV PREL KPAO KPKO SOCI AU UNSC SU
SUBJECT: MY MY, IS THAT AN OCAMPO YOU'RE WEARING? 
 
¶1. SUMMARY: The latest fashion craze for Sudanese women is a toup 
(traditional Sudanese sari-like dress) named after International 
Criminal Court chief prosecutor Luis Moreno-Ocampo.  The "Ocampo" 
toup is a glittering, sequin-heavy design of chiffon.  Its title 
continues a trend of naming clothing items and other ubiquitous 
parts of the Khartoum cultural landscape after significant social 
and political figures.  In a society where the concept of "sex 
sells" is illegal, sardonic epithets are one the few ways of venting 
that is vaguely tolerated by the regime.  END SUMMARY. 
 
¶2. Since the 1960s, merchants have been giving nicknames to products 
in Sudan that have made their mark on the cultural tapestry of the 
country.  The Khartoum Belail ("Khartoum in the Night") refers to an 
item of clothing with glitter-encrusted fabric, which was popular 
with women throughout Sudan when Khartoum was the only major city 
with regular electricity.  Likewise, in the 1970s the donning of a 
"Leyla Elwi" was for those hoping for a bit of the glamour made 
popular by an Egyptian movie star of the same name.  Proving that 
Ocampo wasn't the first Argentine to leave a cultural mark on Sudan, 
the striped "Maradona" (named after the famous soccer player and his 
signature jersey) was a hit. 
 
¶3. Beginning with the fall of Nimeri's regime in the 1980s, however, 
the "Intifada" ("uprising") toup marked the beginning of a political 
slant for items across the Sudanese marketplace.  With the signing 
of the CPA, the "Naivasha" became in style.  After John Garang's 
death, a popular Nokia cell phone was given the handle "Salva Kiir" 
(so-called because it, too, was "new and black.")  And the 
ever-present wide-body Toyota pick-up truck was given the moniker 
"Widad Babikir" (after Sudanese President Bashir's full-figured 
second wife.)  Along with the "Ocampo," a red silk design known as 
"Hummer" (after the American military vehicle) is currently one of 
most popular and expensive items, retailing at over USD 300 per 
toup. 
 
¶4. COMMENT: In a society where the nightlife of Khartoum was once 
the envy of the continent and Sudanese university students were 
revered for their objective attitudes, Sharia law and authoritarian 
rule have forced many sentiments underground.  As a recent Agence 
France-Presse article on the "Ocampo toup" recently suggested, 
despite its popularity, many shopkeepers are reluctant to openly 
label or talk to foreigners about this latest fashion trend.  But 
these nicknames can provide a glimpse into the critical mindset 
still alive inside a people largely disgruntled with their 
government. 
 
FERNANDEZ