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Viewing cable 07DUSHANBE1466, A TASTE OF YAK IN REMOTE MURGHAB

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Reference ID Created Released Classification Origin
07DUSHANBE1466 2007-10-17 12:36 2011-08-26 00:00 UNCLASSIFIED Embassy Dushanbe
VZCZCXRO1825
RR RUEHLN RUEHVK RUEHYG
DE RUEHDBU #1466/01 2901236
ZNR UUUUU ZZH
R 171236Z OCT 07
FM AMEMBASSY DUSHANBE
TO RUEHC/SECSTATE WASHDC 1121
INFO RUEHBJ/AMEMBASSY BEIJING 1992
RUEHBS/USEU BRUSSELS 1261
RUEAIIA/CIA WASHDC
RUCNCIS/CIS COLLECTIVE
RUEATRS/DEPT OF TREASURY WASHINGTON DC
RHEFDIA/DIA WASHINGTON DC
RUEHDBU/AMEMBASSY DUSHANBE 3024
RUEHIL/AMEMBASSY ISLAMABAD 2261
RUEHBUL/AMEMBASSY KABUL 2273
RUEHLO/AMEMBASSY LONDON 1830
RUEHML/AMEMBASSY MANILA 0170
RUEHNE/AMEMBASSY NEW DELHI 2217
RHEHAAA/NATIONAL SECURITY COUNCIL WASHINGTON DC
RUEHKO/AMEMBASSY TOKYO 1646
RUEHNO/USMISSION USNATO 1788
RUEHVEN/USMISSION USOSCE 2037
RUCPDOC/USDOC WASHDC 0191
RUEHAK/AMEMBASSY ANKARA 2022
UNCLAS SECTION 01 OF 02 DUSHANBE 001466 
 
SIPDIS 
 
SIPDIS 
 
STATE FOR SCA/CEN 
 
E.O. 12958: N/A 
TAGS: ECON ETRD PGOV EAID PREL TI
SUBJECT: A TASTE OF YAK IN REMOTE MURGHAB 
 
REF: REF A: DUSHANBE 1456; REF B: DUSHANBE 1460 
 
DUSHANBE 00001466  001.2 OF 002 
 
 
1. (U) Summary: Remote, harsh and cold, and sparsely populated 
by residents with hardened wind-battered facial features, 
Murghab sits atop an 11,778-foot plateau in an area that defines 
remote in eastern Tajikistan.  EconOffs drove to Murghab in 
eastern Tajikistan in early October to see how residents live. 
They found a town offering little overall economic activity and 
surviving on a combination of yaks, remittances, and assistance 
programs, but benefiting very little from the flow of Chinese 
traders.  End Summary. 
 
2. (U) Murghab sits at an international crossroads with China 90 
kilometers to the east, Kyrgyzstan 420 kilometers to the north, 
and Khorog 311 kilometers west.  The 7,000 people in Murghab 
survive on yak and sheep herding, trading, handicrafts, and 
remittance income from abroad.  Murghab physically resembles 
rural Mongolia; residents of Murghab are mostly ethnic Kyrgyz, 
typically former nomads who've settled there.  Russian is the 
common language in Murghab, and both the Tajik and Kyrgyz 
primary schools teach Russian language to local youth.  There 
are separate mosques for the Kyrgyz Sunni Muslims and for the 
Shia Pamiri Ismailis, who go to the Jamoat Khona (an Ismaili 
mosque). 
 
3. (U) The town of Murghab is a thicket of winding streets, with 
small houses cobbled together from bits and pieces of wood, 
scrap metal, stone, mud, bricks, and discarded car parts. 
Residents heat their houses with coal, and use underground wells 
for drinking water.  There are no cafes or restaurants, and by 
6:00 PM the streets are empty.  Since almost nothing grows in 
Murghab, nearly all food is imported, mostly from Kyrgyzstan. 
EconOffs enjoyed yak-stuffed peppers and yak soup, along with 
fried eggs, bread, and tea.  The night sky in Murghab, unspoiled 
by electric lights, reveals billions and billions of stars with 
a creamy Milky Way overhead; a nearby Soviet astronomy facility 
was planned but not completed. 
 
4. (U) Peeking into the stalls in Murghab's bazaar reveals small 
quantities of Chinese imported clothing, and small consumer and 
electronics goods.  Transportation costs drive up local prices, 
with the price for a 50 kilogram sack of flour 180 somoni, 50 
somoni more than in Dushanbe; recent inflation has hit local 
residents hard (reftel A).  Local businesspeople told EconOffs 
October 4 that Tajik traders bring in goods from China through 
the Kulma Pass or through Osh in Kyrgyzstan.  Fifteen Chinese 
trucks sat at a small truck terminal on the edge of town, 
deciding whether to wait more than a week for the Tajik-Chinese 
border to re-open on October 16, or to travel further to Osh 
where the can cross any time, weather permitting.  [Note: The 
border crossing at the Kulma Pass is open 15 days, closed 15 
days.  End note.]  The Chinese traders keep to themselves and do 
not use Tajik services. 
 
5. (SBU) The roads to Murghab are in poor condition, and China 
is considering rehabilitating the road from the Kulma Pass to 
Khorog through Murghab.  Flying to Murghab is not an option 
(there is no commercial air service), although there is an old, 
well-constructed Soviet airport a few kilometers north of 
Murghab on the way to Osh, Kyrgyzstan.  The biggest surprise 
about the airport in Murghab besides its existence is the 
quality and length of the three-kilometer asphalt runway.  The 
terminal has been stripped completely bare, and there is no 
fence preventing vehicles from driving right onto the runway. 
According to Suhrob Garibmamadov of the Aga Khan's Mountain 
Societies Development Support Program, Russian military support 
planes use the airport every seven to ten days. 
 
6. (U) A variety of donors, particularly the Mountain Societies 
Development Support Program and the international 
non-governmental development Agency for Technical Cooperation 
and Development fund education and health projects, ecotourism, 
poverty reduction, and small business development programs.  The 
Agency for Technical Cooperation and Development helps 104 women 
 
DUSHANBE 00001466  002.2 OF 002 
 
 
sell their handicrafts in Dushanbe through a project called the 
Yak House.  A small ecotourism project puts up adventure 
tourists in a local guest house or arranges yurt stays.  USAID 
helped rehabilitate the town's mini-hydro plant (reftel B) in 
2002.  The area's single Democracy Commission grantee planned to 
publish a bulletin but had to cancel her grant due to local 
government pressure.  A public association "SUDVO" works on 
basic poverty reduction; combining membership and donor funds, 
SUDVO gives yaks, goats, and sheep to extremely poor people for 
basic survival.  Five residents of Murghab made the final round 
of competition for the Future Leaders Exchange Program this 
year. 
 
7. (U) Comment: Residents of Murghab are extremely welcoming to 
foreigners, and blame the government for their predicament. 
Opportunities are few, and there has been little attempt to 
harness the economic benefits from transit traders, although the 
anticipated Chinese influx into the region has only begun to 
gain momentum.  It is likely that economic development will 
largely pass by Murghab, along with most of Gorno-Badakshan's 
200,000 residents.  End Comment. 
JACOBSON