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Viewing cable 07CHENGDU14, ON THE ROAD THROUGH SICHUAN'S ABA PREFECTURE

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Reference ID Created Released Classification Origin
07CHENGDU14 2007-01-11 08:00 2011-08-30 01:44 CONFIDENTIAL Consulate Chengdu
VZCZCXRO5203
RR RUEHGH RUEHVC
DE RUEHCN #0014/01 0110800
ZNY CCCCC ZZH
R 110800Z JAN 07
FM AMCONSUL CHENGDU
TO RUEHC/SECSTATE WASHDC 2357
INFO RUEHOO/CHINA POSTS COLLECTIVE
RHEHAAA/NSC WASHINGTON DC
RUEHCN/AMCONSUL CHENGDU 2840
C O N F I D E N T I A L SECTION 01 OF 03 CHENGDU 000014 
 
SIPDIS 
 
SIPDIS 
STATE FOR EAP/CM, DRL/IRF AND G/STC 
BANGKOK FOR USAID/MSTIEVATER AND SKISSINGER 
 
E.O. 12958: DECL:  1/11/2027 
TAGS: PGOV ECON PHUM SCUL SENV CH
SUBJECT: ON THE ROAD THROUGH SICHUAN'S ABA PREFECTURE 
 
CHENGDU 00000014  001.2 OF 003 
 
 
CLASSIFIED BY: James Boughner, Acting Consul General, Chengdu, 
Department of State. 
REASON: 1.4 (b), (d) 
 
 
 
CLASSIFIED BY: James Boughner, Acting Consul General, Chengdu, 
Department of State. 
REASON: 1.4 (b), (d) 
 
 
 
1. (C) Summary.  During a recent unofficial visit by Congenoff 
to Sichuan's Aba Prefecture (an ethnic Tibetan area), head monks 
at two temples complained of heavy-handed oversight by the 
Religious Affairs Bureau (RAB), and police and military 
presences were heavy.  Although the prefecture seat of Aba 
Township appeared relatively peaceful, social and ethnic 
tensions in the town of Heishui were obvious.  Significant 
resources appeared to be devoted to developing hydropower 
projects downriver from Heishui.  End summary. 
 
2. (SBU) Congenoff drove his POV from Chengdu to Aba Township, 
accompanied by two ethnic Han companions (one a professional 
tour guide, the other a Chengdu artist with connections to the 
local Buddhist community).  After leaving Aba Township, 
Congenoff passed through the cities of Heishui and Maoxian.  The 
area visited is inhabited mainly by ethnic Tibetans speaking 
Amdo dialect, which is also spoken throughout large areas of 
Qinghai Province and in southern Gansu. 
 
--------------------------------------------- -------------- 
-------------------------------- 
ABA TOWNSHIP: SUNNY, FRIENDLY, HAPPY TO SEE AMERICANS 
--------------------------------------------- -------------- 
-------------------------------- 
 
3. (C) On January 6, Congenoff visited the Langyi Temple in Aba 
Township, a complex of buildings devoted to the Bon religion (a 
native religion predating the arrival of Buddhism in Tibet). 
Temple facilities appeared to be in good shape overall, and many 
pilgrims were circumambulating the buildings.  Following a tour 
of the complex, Congenoff was received by the temple's leader, a 
24 year-old reincarnate lama, colloquially referred to as 
"living buddha," known as Nangshik Rinpoche (original Tibetan 
name Kabsang Ladro) (strictly protect). 
 
4. (C) Nangshik Rinpoche's manner was open and friendly, and he 
seemed happy to receive visitors.  He said that although the 
temple was home to about 620 monks at present, it had space for 
many more.  However, the provincial and central-level RAB 
monitored the number of monks at the temple closely, and because 
of political sensitivities those authorities refused to allow a 
larger number.  He also claimed that, due to those same 
political sensitivities, the RAB would not allow him to travel 
overseas. 
 
5. (C) Asked about the state of the temple's finances, he 
acknowledged that the temple was under considerable economic 
pressure.  He noted that monks coming from the nearby area often 
received considerable support from their families, but the 
temple was forced to house and feed monks from more remote 
areas.  In addition to direct donations, sources of income for 
the temple included fees charged to tourists, and tuition paid 
by students at the temple's "Institute for the Study of the Bon 
Religion."  The temple also operated a small hostel nearby for 
visiting pilgrims and students, and the Rinpoche said that the 
hostel planned to open a store to sell religious goods and 
souvenirs. 
 
6. (C) After the Langyi Temple visit, Congenoff toured the 
nearby Geerdeng Temple, affiliated with the Gelugpa School of 
Tibetan Buddhism (the school headed by the Dalai Lama).  Head 
monk Lobsang Peldan Jigme Gyatso,  who appeared to be in his mid 
to late fifties, led the group through the assembly hall. 
Master Gyatso told Congenoff that the temple's living Buddha, 
known as Geerdeng Rinpoche, had been in exile in India for over 
50 years, and was now 69 years old.  He also said the temple's 
political environment was very sensitive, and that although the 
temple's monastery and assembly hall had room for 3000 monks, 
the RAB would only allow 670 monks to study there at any one 
time.  Congenoff noted that just to the south of the temple 
stood a large Public Security Bureau (PSB) compound, and just to 
the north was a large military base, covering perhaps 100 acres. 
 
7. (C) Aba Township appeared peaceful overall, with very few 
military vehicles on the road.  To the noticeable chagrin of his 
Han companions, ethnic Tibetans appeared especially friendly to 
Congenoff, often greeting him on the street with smiles and 
handshakes.  Many private vehicles displayed American flag 
 
CHENGDU 00000014  002.2 OF 003 
 
 
decals, and Chinese flags appeared nowhere except on government 
buildings.  Inside the Geerdeng Temple store, there was a large 
photograph of Geerdeng Rinpoche on display, smiling broadly in 
front of the U.S. Capitol.  Several stores displayed pictures of 
the Dalai Lama, usually placed in unobtrusive locations. 
 
----------------------------------------- 
HEISHUI: TENSIONS GALORE 
----------------------------------------- 
 
8. (SBU) On January 7, Congenoff drove from Aba to the small 
city of Heishui, located in the Minjiang River valley at a 
considerably lower altitude than Aba Township.  Although the 
population still appeared to be dominated by ethnic Tibetans, 
there were many more Han faces in evidence than in Aba, and the 
overall impression was that of a border town straddling 
traditionally Han and Tibetan areas.  One store near the center 
of town displayed the Dalai Lama's picture prominently. 
 
9. (C) PSB officers and vehicles were out on Heishui's streets 
in considerable force, and a PSB van drove around the city 
constantly with a loudspeaker blaring commands to motorists and 
pedestrians.  Asked why there were so many policemen on the 
streets, a Tibetan restaurant manager would only say nervously 
(and apparently nonsensically) that the town had "few social 
contradictions."  Later a policeman told Congenoff the town had 
a violent disturbance that morning, caused by "gangsters." 
 
10. (C) Congenoff's tour guide was obviously uncomfortable in 
Heishui, and refused to allow the group to spend the night 
there, saying that it was notorious for crime and conflicts. 
She told of escorting a tour group through the nearby city of 
Maoxian in September of 2006, and of being delayed for two hours 
on the road by a long military convoy.  When she asked what was 
going on, she was told that the army was responding to a major 
disturbance in Heishui. 
 
11. (C) Congenoff visited Heishui's shrine to PLA martyrs killed 
during the Long March and in the Chinese civil war, a shabby and 
rundown monument located on the outskirts of town (a Han 
companion said that it had been in excellent condition during a 
visit ten years before).  (Note: According to the Consulate's 
Political Assistant, an ethnic Tibetan, the central government 
has placed similar monuments in many Tibetan areas, and they are 
a frequent flashpoint for friction between Han and Tibetan 
inhabitants.  End note.) 
 
12. (SBU) Hydropower development on the Minjiang River, which 
passes through Heishui, was very extensive.  Congenoff passed at 
least seven dams and generating stations under construction, and 
noted that water pollution became much more obvious in the river 
downstream from Heishui. 
 
------------------------------------------ 
A VISIT TO A QIANG VILLAGE 
------------------------------------------ 
 
13. (SBU) On January 8 Congenoff visited the village of Luobo, 
inhabited by members of the Qiang minority (identified by some 
scholars as a proto-Tibetan people) just south of the city of 
Maoxian.  Located near the summit of a mountain, the village is 
promoted as the oldest Qiang settlement in existence, with over 
2000 years of history.  Although the village has seen 
development of its tourism infrastructure, including a paved 
access road, a parking lot, and a large restaurant, Congenoff's 
group were the only visitors that day.  Much of the village 
appeared abandoned, and local residents said that most younger 
people had left for work in urban areas.  Marijuana smoke wafted 
from two houses. 
 
--------------------------------------------- -------------- 
------------------- 
A NOTE ON ROAD CONDITIONS AND ACCOMODATIONS 
--------------------------------------------- -------------- 
------------------- 
 
14. (SBU) Road conditions varied widely.  The highway from 
Wenchuan (about three hours north of Chengdu) to Aba Township 
was in very good shape generally, although traffic was heavy in 
places, and short stretches of the road were under construction. 
 Between Aba Township and Heishui, snow covered the road for 
about five miles over a treacherous mountain pass, and from 
Heishui to Maoxian, heavy traffic and extremely bad road 
conditions slowed traffic to a crawl for long periods.  Nowhere 
was Congenoff stopped or questioned by local authorities, 
despite the fact that he was an obvious foreigner driving a 
vehicle with consulate plates.  In Aba Township, hotels did not 
have heat, functioning toilets, or running water, although 
Maoxian boasted a three-star hotel with the usual amenities. 
 
 
CHENGDU 00000014  003.2 OF 003 
 
 
--------------- 
COMMENT 
--------------- 
 
15. (C) Traveling unofficially gave Congenoff the advantage of 
making unscripted visits to relatively sensitive areas, and of 
direct contact with locals.  The overall impression: a Tibetan 
population resentful of Chinese central government control, and 
Chinese authorities ready to assert the force needed to maintain 
that control. 
BOUGHNER